There'll always be an Australian

Go to any country, town, or one-horse pit-stop in the world, and the chances are that there'll be an Australian somewhere in the vicinity. Maybe it's something to do the tyranny of distance, but whatever the motivation, the fact remains that Aussies love to throw on the old backpack and travel the globe.

Here in Guyana, it's the same old story. The cricket's in town, and the Australians have come to support the team, soak up the local flavour and savour the spectacle. They've come from Melbourne via South Africa. They've come from Sydney via Caracas. They've come with blow-up kangaroos, Aboriginal flags and vital supplies of Vegemite. And they've come with the expectation of great cricket and an experience that will last a lifetime. So far, they haven't been disappointed.

"Everyone warned me not to come, but I'm glad I didn't pay attention," says Dean from Melbourne. "So many people told me Guyana was too dangerous, but I'm having a fabulous time. There are dodgy spots in town, but aren't there places like that everywhere?"

He's not alone in this thinking. Official sources, including the Australian Foreign Affairs Department, emphasise the high crime rate and political instability of the region. But according to those who have made the trip, the fiction of this South American section of the Caribbean is very different from the fact.

"The people here are fantastic," says Luke, from Point Lonsdale in Victoria. "We've had nothing but hospitality and friendliness." Luke runs Waving The Flag, an outfit specialising in cricket tourism. In two years of operation, the WTF crew have made the trek to India, Sri Lanka and Sharjah. This year alone they've taken groups to the Ashes and the World Cup. But the West Indies tour is the most popular. There are 35 in the group in Georgetown, but they're expecting a further 80 to join the ranks by the time the circus reaches Barbados. "Cricket in the Caribbean has such a different atmosphere," says Luke. "It's the game, the music, the crowds, the noise ... the whole shebang that makes that bloody long trip worthwhile."

For many from a land down under, coming to this neck of the woods is a sporting dream come true. "This is my first trip outside the country," says Bern from Melbourne. "I've thought about this my whole life and now I'm here. The weather's warm, the beer's cold and there's wonderful cricket in the centre. Does life get any better than this?" Bern's brought along his green-and-gold wig for the occasion. "It's a beauty isn't it?" he says, patting it proudly. "I've been offered a lot of money for it, but it's not coming off my head. It's a kind of cultural-exchange gesture."

Mat from Sydney is on his first trip to the Caribbean, and is impressed with what he's encountered so far. "It's brilliant," he says. "The people make it so easy to like the place. We played a game against a local team yesterday, and they couldn't do enough for us. We're as far away from Australia as we can get and yet there's this bond between us."

Diplomatic missions aside, however, there is ample evidence of that other well-known aspect of Australians abroad. They do like a drink. Belinda from Sydney has momentarily lost interest in the game, and is sipping vodka mixed with something suspiciously green. "I have no idea what's in here, but it doesn't taste too bad," she says, sharing around a concoction that has the consistency of soup and the smell of cough medicine.

They haven't all come on organised tours. Anton from Brisbane is going solo at Bourda, but hasn't let that spoil his fun. He's joined forces with a sombrero-wearing local called Rupert, who's brandishing maracas, a feather duster and an unbelievably large bottle of rum. "I think I've been invited home to meet the family," says the boy from Brissie. "Or maybe I've promised to marry his daughter. I'm not sure which, but who cares? I'm having a great day."

Dave from Canberra has become best mates with Vishnu, a Georgetown resident. Apparently they share a common interest in unusual statistics. "Vishnu reckons Shane Warne is the only bowler with a fat arse to average under 30," says Dave, who is on his fifth beer and waved goodbye to logic (and the Wisden Wizard) hours ago. Vishnu nods, before the new bosom buddies return to their discussions of other anatomically related sports trivia. As the sound system pumps out the unofficial Aussie anthem; Cold Chisel's Working Class Man, the cheer goes up and the Southern Cross flags wave. It seems that even in Guyana, there is a little corner that is forever Australia.